Any horse rider knows that the horse has to be comfortable if he is to enjoy his ride.

This holds true whether the rider is into show jumping, a professional horse rider or into racing. Maybe, he loves riding a horse just for the fun of it and there are a fair number in this category as well. You not only have to have a firm saddle but saddlepads that fit snugly too. These British made saddlepads are made in a range large enough in order to satisfy the needs and tastes of even the most discerning of riders.

The saddlepads fit well so that they provide the best protection that’s required for the horse. The finest British wool is selected and the better numnahs are made from British wool pile that’s been made in a 5 oz quilt that has a rolled edge. These saddlepads are not only durable but smart as well. Then there are numnahs that have been specially designed to cater to those occasions when your horse needs to be ridden over really long distances. Sometimes, you have to ride a horse that has a sensitive back. Such horses need special care. Numnahs come in different sizes, styles and color. The various styles include Dressage or DR, GP and WH or Working Hunter. The sizes normally include the small, the medium, large and the extra large. These are available in black, white and gray or brown. They could be ordered in lightweight wool or in contrasting colors for the wool and the quilt.

There are occasions when you would prefer half numnahs. These half numnahs are made of wool on both sides. This goes a long way in ensuring that the leg contact is good and there is proper cushioning maintained on the pressure points. This offers a lot of relief to a horse that has a very tender and sensitive back. There are high wither single wool half numnahs that you may use either on their own or with a pad if required. These are made with wool that’s placed below the 5 oz quilt so as to protect the horse’s back.

The article is an effort of the webmaster at www.nuumed.com We specialize in manufacturing British made numnahs, saddlepads, seatsavers, corrective pads, dressage, half numnahs and horse accessories meeting to a wide range of specifications.

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Making it comfortable for your horse

What a wonderful situation to be in where you can get up each morning and venture down to the barn and greet your friends that greet you with a winney, or body language that says please hurry up because we are really, really hungry. Having your horses on the same property that you reside is a blessing. Not only is it convenient, but you won’t miss the endless moments of fun and humor horses bring to us.

So, if you feed them at eight o’clock, try not to make it any later than eight thirty. Afternoon feeding should be the same, and if you can even split the daily rations into a third feeding, even better yet. I understand that having at least one to three acres of land per horse is not always possible, but this is a recommendation for the better health of your horse.

If you have stalls to clean, clean them every day. This means not only taking out the manure but the urine. Horses like to lay down, some several times a day or several times in the evening. That is why it is important to keep sufficient bedding underneath of them. Also, the more bedding you use as a general rule, the cleaner your horse will stay. Barely covering the bottom of the stall really is not sufficient. Some horses urinate a lot so you need enough bedding to absorb this and make it comfortable for your animal.

As far as fencing goes, there is nothing wrong with good old fashion three or four board fencing. Many farms now use the No Climb fencing which is an interwoven mesh wire pattern that horses cannot put their feet through or under. Of course you need a top board to hold everything in place. When building paddocks, there should be at least six to eight feet in between each paddock. This way the horses cannot fuss at each other over the fence. Not only do they tear the fences down but risk injury that not only can be costly but can put them out of commission for riding, for long periods of time.

Make sure the distance in between paddocks is large enough to get grass cutting equipment into that area easily. Try to set up your paddocks in a logical way that makes easy access and easy to keep a watchful eye on them. If your property does not have a sufficient amount of trees for shade, remember to limit the amount of time horses must spend in the harsh sun, rain or severe cold. For example, horses in hot weather should be brought inside during the day out of the sun and turned out at night when it is cooler unless you have a severe bug problem. Cold weather horses should be out during the day where the sun can warm them and in at night.

As far as water, good old bath tubs with the fixings removed, large stainless steel fifty or one hundred gallon tubs are available or automatic waterers are available in many varieties. Remember having a constant amount of fresh clean water available for your horse is imperative. Water is a nutrient that they must replenish as needed. Dehydration can be deadly.

Next, it is a good thing to have a designated riding area where you can have a one on one session without interruption, unless you are just interested in trail riding. Also you may want to have a round pen for lunging your horse before schooling them as this can take the edge off of horses that have a high energy level.

Next, keeping your grass cut often is important as horses prefer shorter, more tender grass. Allowing the weeds to grow, and seed to spread, will only cause more weeds. Keeping them cut often will help eliminate most of them. At the same time, make sure not to cut the grass too short as it will burn and rob your horses of not only taste, but nutrients, not to mention that some horses will start picking over the burnt grass or not eat it at all. Taking soil samples and fertilizing each year will help keep your grass enriched with all the nutrients it can offer to your horse and may reduce your feed bill depending on how often and how hard you are riding your horse.

Remember, horses are herding animals that were born to be with other horses and their system was meant to consume food often. If it is possible, try not to keep just one horse on your property. This is a lonely life for them. Even if they do not seem to get along with the only other companion that they have, they would prefer that over being alone. You will understand this when you try to take one or the other horse out of the paddock which can sometimes be a problem, but we will talk about this at a later date.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
http://www.youtube.com/BeverlyJansen
I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting How To videos on my YouTube channel regularly.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Beverly_Jansen

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Horse Home Care

The Arabian horse is an animal which has lived on the Arabian Peninsula for well over 2000 years. These horses were properly bred to demonstrate many traits which were attractive, such as strength, beauty, and endurance. Many experts on horses have concluded that Arabian horses are among the oldest breeds in the world.

The Bedouins were a nomadic people who are given credit for first taming the Arabian horse. The Bedouins made every effort to protect the purity of these horses, and many could trace back the lineage of the horses they owned. During this time, it was critical to have a horse which was strong, fast, and courageous. It also had to be capable of surviving in the desert environment. The Bedouin tribes were constantly at war with other tribes in the region, and it was necessary to have a horse which could lead them into battle.

The Bedouins soon gained a reputation for breeding some of the most beautiful horses ever seen. Many people would trade horses with them, and they would get together and share the lineages of the horses which were traded. There are a number of different variations of Arabian horses, which are known as strains. These horses have a common ancestor and look. Some of these are Hadban, Kuhaylan, and Dahman.

The Arabian horse of one of the most well known breeds in the world. Their heads are shaped like wedges, and they have large eyes and a small muzzle. Arabian horses which have a concave shaped nose are highly prized. The neck of an Arabian horse should be arched, and their legs should be muscular and lean. Their coat should be shiny, and can be likened to silk. Despite this, Arabian horses are often not seen at the highest levels of show jumping competitions, because it does not have a good bascule compared to other breeds.

Most Arabian horses have a coat which is grey or brown, and some horses also have black coats. Arabian horses with black coats were rare, because in the desert they would absorb heat, and this would be dangerous. Because the Arabian horse is so genetically pure, it is commonly used in enhancing the characteristics of other breeds of horses. Arabian horses have a good temperament, and this also makes them attractive to breeders.

Arabian horses have been used in professional horse competitions for a long time, and Arabian horse games are being held every year in which the horses and their owners can compete with each other.

About the Author

Tristan Andrews is a freelance author who writes articles about pet health and pet supplies.

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Arabian Horse – 2000 Years Old And Still Here

There are almost as many opinions on the proper feed and charge of horses as in attendance are altered kinds of horses. Much of the “correct” kind of feeding will depend on what did you say? Kind of piece, if a few, your horse does on a regular basis. Here is a universal overview on how to feed your horses appropriately.

The the majority weighty phenomenon is to promote to certainly with the purpose of your horse has clean, fresh fill with tears readily open next to all epoch. Horses surprisingly consume more fill with tears in the cold months of winter than in the warmer months of the day. There are many altered ways to promote to certainly with the purpose of your horse gets a fresh supply of fill with tears next to all epoch of the day. One of the easiest ways to figure out this is to employment poly horses tanks. You can pay for these next to the majority plow provisions in support of a nominal fee. These tanks promote to admirable fill with tears containers as they don’t crack what time it’s freezing outside. There are even tank heaters with the purpose of you can employment in order to keep the fill with tears from freezing as well. Make certainly to set a cage around with the purpose of submersible tank space heater in order to prevent it from melting a void in your tank. Any old plastic tub will piece if you wish for to save money. Make certainly to systematically clean the container with full-strength bleach to execute a few algae with the purpose of possibly will grow. Of track, you will wish for to solution not at home your tank to persuade free of a few traces of bleach.

Make certainly to acquisition a tank and hoses with the purpose of are rated in support of feeding. Some hoses contain ingredients with the purpose of promote to them out of place in support of haulage fill with tears in support of physical or human being consumption. Check the label carefully in order to promote to certainly you know what did you say? You are selling. Water hoses get nearer in many altered sizes and lengths. Some even get nearer in collapsible form, which factory well in support of individuals colder climates somewhere fill with tears will freeze inside the rinse in overnight temperatures.

Here are a number of other basic guidelines on feeding horses. First, promote to certainly you control a map out limestone bar and an iodized salt bar in support of your horse. These provide the essential vitamins and natural resources your horse needs on a regular basis. Your horse will lick or chew the bar, as they require natural resources. These blocks can be found next to the majority feed provisions and the majority farm-related provisions as well.

Feeding your horse possibly will depend on your horse’s entity needs, so promote to certainly to call your vet if you control a few questions. Every horse is altered and the correct feeding schedule will depend on action level, age, geographic location and various other factors.

If you live in an area somewhere the grass is sleeping, you possibly will wish for to supplement your horses diet. Taking part in cold climates, grain possibly will be wanted in order to help your horse be adamant a healthy significance for the period of individuals cold winter months. Quality grass hay can be purchased from feed provisions. When choosing the exact kind of feed, consider crimped oats, cracked or rolled corn, all of which promote to lovely feeds in support of horses in need of something especially for the period of individuals cold winter months. This can help their metabolism in keeping them restful and healthy. Make certainly to refer a few special dietary concerns with your vet.

One feeding catch with the purpose of is attractive more collective is over-feeding an idle horse. This often happens what time a horse consumes more than he can burn sour for the period of employment will figure out more impairment to him than lovely. How can you tell if your horse has gained too much significance? Here is a lovely power of thumb: You be supposed to ideally be able to run your fingers along his kid cage with light pressure and be able to feel the horse’s ribs. If you learn with the purpose of you control to lean into the horse and press down your fingers to apply hooligan pressure, in attendance is a lovely probability with the purpose of your horse possibly will be fat. Overweight horses often suffer from especially stress on their hearts with the especially fat, which makes it harder in support of the mind to pump blood to the put of the horse’s body. Make certainly to consult your vet if you think your horse possibly will be fat.

About the Author

For More Info Visit: http://www.horsecareguide.net

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Feeding Horses And How It Works

Do you want to learn about Hoof Abscesses? If yes, then this article is just the piece you need. Get concise information on this troubling Horse disease here.

Singular Term: Abscess

Plural Term: Abscesses

Definition

An abscess is a collection of pus trapped in a capsule in the tissues under the skin of horses.

A hoof abscess is an infection within the hoof in an area called the lamina [ more like the soles of horses' shoes]. The lamina consists of hard and soft sections, also known as the insensitive and sensitive lamina, respectively. The hard lamina is essentially the hoof capsule, and the soft lamina is the tissue that connects the hoof capsule to the bone, also known as the white line. On the bottom of the hoof, called the solar surface, the sole of the hoof connects to the hoof wall at the white line.

Causes

Abscesses are often caused when foreign bodies penetrate the skin and underlying tissue, e.g. the horse steps on a foreign object, usually a nail, and it drives into the sole, taking dirt and bacteria in with it. When the foreign object is pulled out the sole closes up, sealing itself and the bacteria in the hoof. If the area is not opened up immediately to clean out the bacteria and other debris, an abscess can form.

An abscess may also occur without any form of penetration of foreign bodies.  It usually stems from damages done to the corium.

Symptoms

Sudden Lameness in Horses. Showing signs of lethargy. These signs sometimes indicate the presence of an abscess.

Prevention

Keep the hoof dry, clean and well trimmed. This means picking hooves daily and ensuring the bedding is kept as clean as possible. Regular trimming keeps the sole from trapping the debris under itself.

Treatment

Thoroughly cleanse area with iodine based scrub. Remove dirt, debris or dead tissue, check wound to see no foreign body remains inside.

An abscess needs exposure. Once the abscess is exposed, the area is flushed with antiseptic to kill the bacteria and clear all of the pus out of the tract or pocket. The hoof is then usually soaked in a warm epsom salts solution to help draw out and kill more of the bacteria. Painkillers and anti-inflammatory medicine, such as bute, are given to relieve the pain and to decrease inflammation.

The information given in this article is for educational purposes only.  It is not meant to replace the advice of the veterinarian.

For more information, visit www.horsechannel.com/horse-health/horse-hoof-abscess-17265.aspx

Resource(s) www.horsechannel.com/horse-health/horse-hoof-abscess-17265.aspx

Wale Akin-William

[Founder, e-horse riding saddles]

Get Quality and Affordable horse riding saddles at e-horseridingsaddles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Wale_Akinlude-William

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Horses and Diseases – Five Critical Points on Hoof Abscesses

One of the most effective tools that you can use in your groundwork horse training is to utilize the round pen. There are a few basic reasons for this, but perhaps the most important is that a round pen provides a safe environment where we can establish leadership with our horses. Assuming that the panels are good ones with no sharp edges and the pen is set up so that there are no corners where a horse can become “trapped”, a round pen acts as a small area where a horse can move without restriction.

The first principle when training a horse in the round pen is to do it “at liberty”. What this means is that we take the halter and lead line off the horse. By doing this we set up a situation where the horse will have to submit to us as a leader by his own choice.

When training a horse in this way, we act as a leader for the horse almost automatically. This is because “dominant” members of the herd move the other horses around. So a horse understands control of movement instinctively. By controlling his movement, you automatically become his leader. By training a horse using a language he already understands we can produce better long term results.

In a round pen, you control three aspects of movement: direction, speed, and when and where the horse can come to a stop.

Start by using confident body language to indicate which direction you want your horse to go. To ask him to move to the left, lift and point your left hand to the left. Then put pressure on his hip. Do this with your lead rope, or with a whip or carrot stick. Most horses will respond to this naturally and move out to the left.

Have your horse circle around about 5 times. At first, you want the horse to be moving at a canter. Later you will move between gaits but in the beginning remember that a horse can walk or trot all day long and we want to communicate to him that we are controlling his movement. So ask him to canter 5 times to the left, putting pressure on his hip if he drops his speed. Then get in his way and ask for a change in direction. Repeat the process having him canter 5 times to the right.

At that point you can take some pressure off and get him to drop down to a trot, walk and then come to a stop. You take pressure off by backing away from the horse and breathing out. When your horse really respects you as a leader, he will turn and face you.

Then you can approach the animal. This has to be done in the right way, something we will discuss in a future article.

Training a horse in the round pen is an important aspect of your overall groundwork program.

About the Author

David McMahon is a free lance author who owns 3 horses and writes about horse training issues. For more information please visit Mastering Basic Groundwork (Horse Training).

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Training a Horse in the Round Pen

One of the big mistakes that people make when working with horses is assuming that a horse thinks like a human. As a matter of fact, horses perceive the entire world differently than we do. If we acknowledge that fact, and try to understand that, then we can communicate more effectively with horses.

A horse is a prey animal. He is built to stay safe in the wild. His eyes are on the side of this head so he can see almost 360 degrees around him. Those eyes are also a long way from his mouth so he can see farther when grazing. But, most of all, a horses is programmed deep in his bones to run away from a perception of danger. It is easy to make a horse afraid because it is in his nature to be afraid. For example, because a horse’s eyes are on the side of his head, he doesn’t have very good stereoscopic vision or depth perception at close range. He can’t tell if a puddle or stream is 2 inches deep or 20 feet deep. If you ask a horse to cross a small stream, he may balk. To our eyes, it should be simple to see that it’s just a little water. The horse doesn’t know that and may refuse. It may seem like the horse is refusing because he is obstinate or disrespectful. But, in reality, he is afraid. And he’s not afraid he’ll get hurt, he’s afraid he will die.

As humans, if we approach the issue as if the horse is being disrespectful and won’t mind, there is a danger of the episode escalating to something ugly for both parties. However, if we acknowledge his fear and understand his perspective, we can work with the horse to show him that the stream is nothing to be afraid of. Our understanding if his point of view makes all the difference. When it comes to people we assume that others think like us. The business owner doesn’t understand why the employee doesn’t want to work all weekend. The boss thinks about her business all the time and how to make it better. The employee only wants to do his job from 8:00 to 5:00, Monday through Friday, then go home to his family. If the boss doesn’t understand this difference of perspective, it can lead to friction and resentment in the relationship.

My horses have taught me to try to understand everyone’s point of view and that not everyone has the same perspective I do. When we understand each other, we can work together.

You don’t have to have a horse to learn how horsemanship will help you be a better leader. Let me share my life lessons I learned while astride my horse. http://TheBestHorseSense.com

Jay Koch
505-565-8526

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jay_Koch

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Life Lessons From Horses – Understanding Another’s Point of View

When learning about training tips, horses can be either very easy or very difficult to train. A horses eagerness to learn depends on many factors, such as what situation the horse is coming to you from. If the horse is still in infancy it will be significantly easier to train than a horse that is older and still wild. When you look for training tips, horses are either new to you, or already a part of your life and you want to learn how to train them easier. There are many helpful guides available such as Horse Training Secrets Revealed which will teach you how to train any horse, whether you are new or have had horses all your life.

Horse training consists of a variety of techniques that are used to tech horses to accomplish specific actions when asked. Horses are commonly trained in jobs such as transportation, therapeutic ventures such as giving rides to those who are physically disabled, and various sporting activities like racing or agility.

You cannot teach a horse to ride when it is still in infancy, but this period in a horses life is ideal for teaching a variety of other things that are required. Desensitization, biting, longing and driving in ground are all popular skills that a horse needs to learn when it is still young and before it learns to ride.

Once this training is completed you can then teach a horse to ride. Getting the horse familiar with the riding gear is essential to an easy training process. Basic commands such as go, stop, or turn around are also very important if you want your riding experience to be a good one. With the right training you will develop a deep bond with your horse that will last through a lifetime of riding.

Vanessa Peters knows horses like she knows her face. A farm girl by birth and at heart, Vanessa writes for popular blog Horse-Health-Care.Com. She provides honest information and advice on matters like how to train a horse and more. Get free tips when you visit the site today!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Vanessa_Peters

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Tips – Horse Training

The cost of owning a horse is high, so let’s see how much training you need – and who might be able to do that training. Let’s say that there are five different levels you can find yourself facing:

1) My horse is going to kill me today.
2) I believe my horse is going to hurt me the next time I ask for (a lope, a halt, fill in the blank).
3) My horse makes me nervous (when I’m on the trail and he sees something spooky, for instance).
4) When I try to (bathe the horse, bridle the horse, etc.) he gets really cranky.
5) I would like to improve my horse’s (lead departure, spin, etc.).

Number 1, My Horse is Going to Kill Me Today: Get references, then call a pro for a consultation. Quite often, they’ll do the initial consult gratis. I don’t, but some do. If the professional agrees to continue working with you, scrimp and save or get a second job till you can hire the guy/gal for a handful of sessions. (Note, they may refuse the work if your horse is deemed too dangerous. However, there are many trainers who look forward to such a challenge or are simply younger and bounce better so you might then seek a second opinion. Should the next trainer turn you down… look for another horse.) After the trainer has worked for a reasonable period of time with your horse, ask yourself if the training sessions are worthwhile and financially realistic. Are they getting you anywhere? Will you be eating rice and beans for five years and can you handle that? The alternatives with a truly dangerous horse are to pasture it or to give it away but never to do the (initial) work yourself. I firmly believe that, as John Lyons says, no horse on Earth is worth losing the tip of my little finger. (That “cost of owning a horse” is entirely too high, if ya get my drift.) I’m paraphrasing, of course, but the bottom line is “it ain’t worth getting hurt.” What’s a couple hundred bucks up against a broken shoulder and time spent off from work, sans paycheck? Bottom line time: Your horse can break you in half today and sleep fine tonight.

Number 2, I Believe My Horse Is Going to Hurt Me the Next Time I Ask For (Something): In these more extreme situations, (#1 and #2), your safety is paramount. Each horse owner is going to have to decide for themselves when to push forward and when to back off. With a horse that I believe to be a time bomb (“He’ll blow the next time I ask for a lope.”), I’d save up, and go without “extras” in my life until I could afford a consultation with somebody, just as in Number 1, above. I’d find someone who has dealt with “this sort of thing” (bucking, rearing, etc.) before. I’d find them by asking around at the barn where I ride, by searching online (try the phrase “John Lyons trainers in (your state)” in Google) or I’d call the offices of big names like John Lyons and asking for local recommendations. (And then I would speak to present or former clients.)

Again, schedule a consultation or training session. Use that time to decide whether your horse is something you can fix yourself (given proper instruction) and be honest. If it’s not something you can work on yourself, you’re best advised to divest the horse, pasture the horse, or to pony up the bucks it takes to hire the pro. If it’s something you believe you can work through, a simple remedy may be this: Hire the pro to work with you once a month. Work with him for a few hours (or days), ask him for “homework assignments” that you can accomplish yourself, then get to it. Additionally, you’ll need to begin educating yourself. If you get nothing from reading this article but one thing, let it be this: Most issues you can name can be remedied by a return to the basics and you need to learn what basics have been skipped or never taught to your horse. If your horse doesn’t whoa for two blocks, then he’s stiff through the neck or doesn’t understand the “hip to rein connection” or not rounding his back – or a combination of these things and many others.

The more of an understanding you gain of “horse training basics,” the less you’ll have to pay your professional. Borrow or purchase training videos and books that focus on the basics or young horse training, as opposed to being adamant that a particular word (“bucking” or “rearing,” for instance) appear in the title. If your horse is rearing, you won’t find many videos that specifically mention it on the outside jacket – but you’ll find many that address the basics, or foundation training. Why? Because, once again, most issues are fixed by a return to the basics. There’s no single magic exercise; there’s a series of exercises plural. If you can’t afford to buy the videos, many feed stores rent them. I’ve sold copies of the John Lyons’ material to libraries – so I know your local library might also be a resource. (Also, don’t be afraid of the older videos, the ones with the faded covers on VHS selling at a bargain. Horse training hasn’t changed all that much in the last two thousand years. The first two training series produced by John Lyons twenty years ago, for instance, are absolute classics and highly recommended even today.)

3) My Horse Makes Me Nervous (When I’m on the Trail and He Sees Something Spooky, for Instance): We’re beginning to see that there’s no clear line drawn here; answers for #1 bleed into #2, #2 into #3. As in the last paragraphs, your job will also be to return to the basics. You’ll want to think and ask yourself, which of the basics have I missed? A horse that insists on picking up the incorrect lead might improve with exercises designed to gain or regain control over his hips, for instance. Or, maybe he’s throwing/dropping a shoulder… or maybe he’s stiff through his neck…. A return to the basics will allow you to sort of “pick up” training you might have missed earlier.

But here’s the big difference at this level (#3) and what I’d like you to mentally underscore: When our horses explode only once every few months or we think he “should be okay today because he rarely spooks on this particular trail,” then too often we decide to take our chances and blindly push through the situation, in essence, hiding our head in the proverbial sand. We shouldn’t be doing that. (Nor should we spend the previous night pouring through back issues of Perfect Horse magazine as if we’re cramming for a test and can somehow find a magic solution.) The time to work on your horse is in the weeks and months preceding the show, trail ride or what-have-you. Case in point: You’re due to show tomorrow and two out of the last four times he spooked at the announcer’s booth. You decide to take your chances and compete anyway. Or, you’ve got a ride scheduled on the local trail with your friends tomorrow and the last time you crow hopped past the blue garbage cans. But you rationalize: You really want to hang with your friends and tomorrow’s not garbage day, so you go out, overriding common sense.

These thoughts and situations are probably at the root of more riding accidents than those maniacs we talked about in #1 above. Why? Because common sense tells us to stay off the crazed beast – but we’re too darned quick to rationalize and ride sweet Flicka, figuring she only occasionally tosses us to the dust. “Curiosity” kills cats; “rationalizing” kills people. We figure the horse has come to his senses in the last twenty-four hours. Or that the flock of doves was a freak occurrence. Or maybe you’re riding with a different group of horses today and you just don’t believe he’ll be as tempted to bolt to the front. Wrong-o. In each case we’re rationalizing because we want to get out on that trail or make the competition. If you’ve got a horse that could become too much for you out on the trail (read: bolt or rear), then we shouldn’t wait till we’re out there to begin fixing things. We know better, but we make excuses.

In the end, it’ll be your call, of course. If your horse simply shies and you know you can stay in your seat, hey, maybe you go to the show, rather than lose your entry fee. But if you’ve got a potential bolting or bucking situation and you’re a nervous rider? Ignoring that little voice could get you hurt. Waiting to fix it “when it occurs” is REALLY not the option. Basic training is just that: A re-teaching of the basics that necessarily takes time and therefore happens before the bucking – not during. Tell yourself that it’s going to take some time to go back and “patch the leaks,” then find a safe place and teach or re-teach your horse the basics in a controlled situation. Forego the trail until you’ve got firm control of your horse. Live to fight another day, as they say.

4) When I Try to (Bathe the Horse, Bridle the Horse, etc.) He Gets Really Cranky: If your horse pinned his ears for the first time today when you (fill in the blank), then your job is to simply keep doing what you’re doing till he puts those ears back upright. Stopping sooner “sensitizes” the horse, teaching him that the irritation goes away when he pins his ears. If your horse pinned his ears today and he also pinned them yesterday, you’ve developed a pattern of taking the irritation away at the wrong time, thus rewarding the behavior. Continue down this road and your horse will get worse. Not only that, he’ll learn new tricks – and sooner rather than later you’ll find you ain’t the boss no more.

Here’s the simplest way I can put this: If the voice in your head says you’re getting played, remind yourself that you’re paying the bills and develop a zero tolerance policy. The horse has no right to dis you, not for one instant. Use common sense here. It may be a matter of “continuing to do what you’re doing till the ears raise.” For instance, you pet him and he pins his ears. All you do is keep petting till he relaxes. On the other hand, your fix might come in a different form. For instance, if you’re feeding and he pins his ears (“hurry up”), then you might turn abruptly, slap your hands and scream. Let Flicka know in no uncertain way that he’s crossed the line. Trust me, they know the line. Every herd animal instinctively knows where those boundaries are. Don’t be a chump.

5) I Would Like to Improve My Horse’s (Lead Departure, Spin, etc.): People who fall into all categories (1-5), but especially those falling into the final two, can get “a big bang for their buck” simply and inexpensively by doing one simple thing. Doubtless, you’ll pick up training videos and books – but here’s something horse owners tend to overlook: Go to a clinic being held near you and hit the clinician with your specific questions. Attend as an observer, and you’ll also get to see other folks (the riders) as they work through their own issues. I always include Q&A sessions at my clinics, for instance. I’ll stay all night to answer questions – so I believe it’s time well spent for the attendees. Note that you’ll tend to get more personalized attention – and more time from – one of the “less celebrated” clinicians. The famous horse trainers standing in front of 6 or 7 thousand people are simply not going to be able to spend a great deal of time with each question. Another clinician, in a more private setting, however, has the luxury of time.

So, riding in a clinic is great – but so is attending as an observer. For about the price of a movie (okay, maybe two movies), you can get buckets of information. Are you working with a baby but don’t know how far or how long to train? Find a clinic. Are you being pushed around by your horse but don’t know where to draw the line or specifically how to discipline? Find a clinic. Have you read everything there is to read on improving your speed transitions but still you’re on a plateau? Find a clinic. Books and videos are great – but nothing beats seeing it firsthand. Visit your feed store and check the flyers. Walk the local barn and snoop around for upcoming events, check your local freebie magazines and search online. For my events, I make sure to get the word out via email – so signing up for my training newsletter also gets you word when something local is scheduled. Remember, smaller clinics aren’t going to take out big ads so you’re best advised to check around as I’ve described.

And finally, one great way to advance your skills is absolutely free: Get a job with your local riding school where you can trade work for time in the saddle. Sure, you’ll get to chat up instructors with your questions – but you’ll also learn things you’d never think to ask: how to give meds, how to take temperatures or how to tack up for different riding styles (like English vs. western). The greatest thing you’ll take from your time spent comes from the simple fact that you’ll be working with horses who spend their days carting around beginners. You’ll see more shenanigans in one evening than you’d see in years out of your own horse. You’ll learn from other working students exactly how to blanket the recalcitrant mare, how to pick feet up on even the most stubborn horse and (here’s the best part) quite often you’ll learn exactly what NOT to do. It’s time well spent, believe me.

This article is part of the “Cost of Owning a Horse” series. To read more, or to find a clinic or Certified John Lyons horse trainer near you, visit horsemanship101.com.

About the author:

John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman: If your horse won’t speed up, slow down, stop or turn, you missed the latest training methods from John Lyons. Have you lost your confidence? Want to fix your horse for good? Invest one weekend to make big changes with John Lyons Trainer Keith Hosman. He’s based near San Antonio, TX and is available for clinics, private sessions and training. Keith frequently conducts clinics and demonstrations – with an event coming soon to a town near you. For more horse training how to, or to attend a clinic or find a John Lyons trainer living in your area, visit horsemanship101.com now.

Copyright 1996-2009 by Keith Hosman, All Rights Reserved

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Post from: Pets On The Blog

The Cost of Owning a Horse – How Much Training Do You Need?

When most parents set out to buy their child’s first horse, their attitude is that any horse will do. Fat, skinny, tall, short, experienced or inexperienced; it doesn’t matter. After all, the child simply wants a horse!

This is a dangerous mindset, however, because all horses are certainly not created equal, and the wrong choice can lead to injuries and disappointment. I recommend that all parents, regardless of their experience with horses, ask a trainer or instructor to accompany them when they look at possibilities.

The logical first place to start is at the stable where your child takes lessons. If there are horses available for lease or sale, you’ll at least be familiar with their temperaments and dispositions, which will make your decision much more educated. However, this isn’t always an option, and most people must look outside the home turf to find their child’s first horse.

Where to Look

The newspaper is an obvious starting point, though you’ll have to be careful where you go and who you are dealing with. If your instructor or trainer isn’t familiar with the facility where you are going to look for your child’s first horse, be sure to take them along. Unfortunately, many people who deal in horse trading are unscrupulous and will try to sell you an animal that is not safe for children.

The Internet warrants similar caution when buying your child’s first horse, though you can usually find a more advanced selection. Websites like DreamHorse and Horsetopia are filled with thousands of possibilities from all over the world. Most of the Internet classifieds will list the horse’s breed, color, temperament, experience and many will have a picture, as well.

I would not limit your search to classifieds, however, in the search for your child’s first horse. Your home town can generate a wealth of possibilities. Call local barns where horses are sold and inquire about their latest acquisitions.

Trainers who operate stables and farms will have more information and can better help you in your search. Remember, also, is that the horse industry is like a web. Each person you talk with will have a link to someone else, and you might find that you have more possible horses than time to see them!

What to Look For

Unfortunately, even if horse you see looks great, you might still end up with a horse that has secrets buried in its closet. Since non-purebred horses don’t always have papers, and horses aren’t required to be registered, you can’t simply go to HorseBlueBook.com and look up the driving records as you would for a car. Past injuries, illnesses, behavioral problems and tendencies can be glossed over by an experienced horse trader, and it’s impossible to know exactly what you’re getting.

However, you can put your best foot forward as you look for your child’s first horse and check off some of the most common reasons not to buy a horse:

1. Injuries. A few cuts and bruises or an old scar on the hindquarters don’t mean that you cannot purchase a horse, but broken bones, torn ligaments, pulled tendons and the like signal a poor investment.

2. Illnesses. A horse that is predisposed to colic or another disease will likely cost you more in veterinary bills than its asking price. Be sure to request all veterinary history and look over it carefully to search for problems.

3. Biting & Kicking. Horses that bite, kick, buck, rear and generally act up are not good bets for your child. A child’s first horse should be gentle, sound, and easy-going to prevent possible injuries to the rider.

4. Control. This is one of the main reasons why you will want to have an experienced horseman with you when you look at horses. The trainer or instructor should ride the horse first to see if your child will be able to control the animal.

5. Ground manners. As with the previous point, ground manners will determine whether your child will be able to handle the horse on the ground. Leading, tacking, grooming, and bathing are all important factors in your child’s care of the horse.

A Few Tips

Over the years, I’ve had enough experience to learn from my mistakes–and from those of my students and their parents. Here are a few tips that will help you to have a positive and non-stressful buying experience as you search for your child’s first horse:

1. Try the horse out. If the owner agrees–and he or she should if there’s nothing to hide–put a 50 percent deposit on a horse you are considering for your child and take the horse back to your barn for a week. Let your child ride it on a daily basis to make sure there will be no problems. This ensures that the owner did not drug the horse (as is increasingly common).

2. Vet the horse. Before you break out the checkbook for your child’s first horse, have your veterinarian give the animal a check-up. Your vet will X-ray the horse’s bones for abnormalities and will give you his or her opinion as to whether or not you should purchase it.

3. Let the owner ride first. It is common courtesy for the owner of a horse to ride it for you before you take him for a spin, and this is especially true when you’re shopping for your child’s first horse. This decreases that chances you’ll be hurt by a misrepresented animal.

Be prepared for the search for your child’s first horse to take a while. A beginner mount is not an easy animal to find, and it might be months before the perfect one crosses your path. Since children get attached to animals much more quickly than the average adult, however, you won’t want to buy an unsuitable horse only to have to sell him soon after.

Laura Thompson is a horse business consultant and the owner of [http://www.equimanagement.com]EquiManagement. She has worked with horses all her life and is a certified riding instructor. Most of her time is spent writing about horses and the horse business and working with horse business owners.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Laura_Jane_Thompson http://EzineArticles.com/?Guide-to-Buying-Your-Childs-First-Horse&id=1882294

Post from: Pets On The Blog

Guide to Buying Your Child’s First Horse